Stockholm Fashion week key trend 3

Artigo em Portugues

Falar de Jacket vulgo Casaco/Sports jacket (Casaco de desporto) ou bomber jacket é falar do que está em vogue e refiro-me ao que realmente está em tendência. Foi o que vi em passerele, da maior parte dos designers que se apresentaram na semana de moda de Estocolmo. Essa tendência dinâmica onde se misturam peças desportivas com o trabalho de alfataria é uma fusao maravilhosa de que gosto. É bastante inovador. Notei quando o Lavin falou do que está em tendência ou seja o emergir do desportivo em alfataria. Esta cumplicidade apresenta-se na sua colecção primavera/verão 2013. Pois é, foi o que vi em passerele também e pareçe que vai estender-se até ao outono/inverno 013-014. Notei também haver um tom meio rebelde de varias épocas que estão a voltar em passerele. Estilos e épocas que vão desde os anos 20, como referi anteriormente noutro artigo, até aos anos 90. Estes estilos estão ligados ao fardamento militar e também á sua paleta de cor. São estilos inspirados em periodos revolucionarios e no caso da marca sueca "the local firm" essa inspiração traz-nos a atmosfera da queda do muro de Berlin que acontece em 1989. Estamos a falar praticamente dos anos 90. É um momento em que vemos muitos Jackets, sports jackets e também bomber jackets. Looks dinâmicos, prontos para seguir em frente. Aqui a moda realmente vai á rua, desce o salto do chic e fusiona-se com dinamismo e rebeldia.

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          Article in English

When speaking of common Jacket /Sports jacket or bomber jacket it's the same as saying what is on vogue and I mean what's really on trend. 

It was what I saw in the catwalk from most of the designers who were presented at the Stockholm Fashion Week. This dynamic trend on which we can see a fusion between sport style and tradicional tayloring it's something that i really enjoy. It's quite innovative!!

I noticed when Lavin spoke of what is on trend, in other words, the sportive that is emerging in the tayloring. This complicity is evident on his spring/summer collection 2013. 

Yes, that's what I saw on the runways and it looks like it will prevail until the autumn/winter 013-014. 

I also found a kind of rebellious tone from diferent ages that are back on the catwalk. Styles and eras ranging from the 20s, as I mentioned earlier in another article, up to the 90s.

These styles are linked to military uniforms and also to the colour palette. Those are Styles inspired on revolutionary periods and the Swedish brand "The Local Firm" took inspiration on the atmosphere of the fall of the Berlin Wall that happens in 1989. We are almost in the 90s. It is a prolific time for diferent kinds of Jackets, sport jackets and bomber jackets too. A dynamic look ready to move on. Here we can see fashion going down to the street. The "chic" heels become lower and merges with dynamism and rebellion.

The Local Firm

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Venue after  the Show Adam Tensta swedish rapper

veste sport jacket.

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Carin Wester

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Peak Performance

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Back

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Ida Sjöstedt

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Hernandez Cornet

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Altewai Saome

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Tiger of Sweden

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Stockholm FashionWeek Trend key 2

Jump suit/ Clothing Accessories

Article in English : It's no secret that the famous Jumpsuit is on limelight. Since last summer I have been observing and everything indicates that it will keep on going until the next winter 013-014. This trend can be seen in some Swedish and Finnish brands such as Marimekko, Mes Dames, Hernandez Cornet and others that recalled the idea of this garment as something to be considered also bringing a kind of dynamism to the Urban environment. It is important to mention as well, the timeless aspect of it, choosing always appropriate times to return to action. Since more than three seasons a retro/vintage style that goes from the 20s until the 90s is quite present on the runways. This aesthetic came back strong to the fashion scene, without mentioning season variants like the basic Jump Suit or pilot style. Here we have some pictures from research in google that portray the '30s and observe the relationship with the comtemporary that I could find at the Stockholm Fashion Week for Fall Winter 013-014. After these images more can be seen from the work of nordic and scandinavian designers.

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Artigo em Portugues : Nao é segredo nenhum que o Jumpsuit ou as famosas jardineiras ou até mesmo macacão estão na ribalta. Desde o verão passado que tenho vindo a observar e tudo indica que manter-se-á até ao proximo inverno 013-014. Esta tendência pode constatar-se em algumas marcas Suecas e Filandesas tais como a Marimekko, Mes Dames, Hernandez Cornet entre outros que relembraram na passerele a ideia de que se trata de uma peça a adicionar e que traz um certo dinamismo a ser acrescentado ao ambiente Urbano. É também digno de nota o aspecto intemporal desta peça que tem escolhido épocas adequadas para voltar em acçao. Já por ai ha mais de três estações que se tem ido buscar na moda a idea retro vintage e os estilos desde os anos 20 até aos anos 90. Essa estética tem estado de volta ás passereles e sem referir a estação sasonal, das jardineiras básicas ao estilo de piloto de avião. Veja aqui algumas fotos em pesquisa no google que retratam os anos 30 e observe-se a relação com o actual que pude constatar na semana da moda de Estocolmo em proposta para o Outono Inverno 013-014. Depois destas imagens observem o trabalho dos designers escadinavos e nórdicos.

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1930

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Esta Jardineira de ganga, foi inspirada no estilo que se usava na epoca da segunda guerra mundial.

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Marimekko

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Mes Dames

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Hernández Cornet

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Acessorios/ Accessories

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1. Artigo em Portugues

No outro dia estava eu a ler no site "WeConnectFashion" acerca do que os Buyers "os que compram a grosso", estão á procura de ter nas suas lojas e que se enquadra no grupo de peças de acessorio de roupa. São as famosas Mochilas vulgo em inglês, Backpack. Dentro dessa linha de peças de acessorio, alguns dos designers Suecos responderam no seu sentido criativo com a Marca "Jenny Grettve" ou de forma básica e funcional temos o "Whyred". É tambem referir a carteira de ombro da "Back" meio colegial com um trabalhado também funcional..

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2. Article in English

The other day I was reading the website "WeConnectFashion" about what the Buyers are longing to have in their stores that fits in the group of Accessories. 

Backpacks..

Following this line of accessory some swedish designers responded on their creative impulse with the Brand "Jenny Grettve" or even with the more basic and functional "Whyred" It is also noteworthy the shoulder bag from "Back" with a more collegial style and also functional.

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Whyred

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Back

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Jenny Grettve

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Thank You " Flavia Celina Jones"

Arrived today in Stockholm from Denmark Copenhagen our Gift by Dear Amiga Flavia -

thank you so much we will enjoy this * YSL*  "Rouge Pur Couture" lipstick very well.

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Stockholm fashion week **key Pieces for F/W -013-014 By Swedish Designers / Pecas Chaves O-I 013-014 por Designes Suecos

Artigo em Portugues
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Falar de Moda Escandinava é falar de Inovação, de minimalismo e de monocromatismo.
Vou aqui comentar o que esteve em passerelle e algumas das peças que vão aparecer nas casas destes designers.
Primeiramente farei referência a peças que posso considerar como básicas do DNA escandinavo. O "Coat" ou Capa em português, é uma peca intemporal pois apareçe com várias formas e sempre mais elegante mantendo porém o seu fundamento de "capa". 
E com Materias diferentes tambem, porem sempre na linha de coat de silhueta comprida e alongada, a maior parte das vezes em ( oversized ou loose fit ) traduzido diria mas para uma forma meio alargada ou solta.
O que tenho vindo notar é que, cada vez mais, ha uma tendência para uma gola mais reduzida, mais inovadora ou até mesmo ausente.

Veja abaixo, as marcas que pude registar em imagem na passerelle...

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English Article


Speaking of Scandinavian Fashion is synonymous of innovation, minimalism and monochromatism.
I'll comment here, what showed up on the catwalk and some of the garments that will appear in the houses of these designers.
Firstly I will refer to the garments that can be considered as the basic Scandinavian DNA. 
The Coat is a timeless reference, because it appears in various forms and always more elegant and yet retaining its title of "Coat".
What I have come to notice is that, increasingly, there is a tendency for a more innovative collar,  with lower profile or even absent.

Bellow the brands i could capture in the catwalk...

Stockholm Fashion week Day 1 F/W

The Local Firm

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Marimekko

Nordic & Finish Brand 

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Stylein

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Back

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Carin Wester

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Stockholm Fashion Week F/W Day 2

Peak Performance

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HERNÁNDEZ CORNET

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Whyred

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Stockholm Fashion Week Day 3

ALTEWAI SAOME

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Diana Orving

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Tiger of Sweden

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The Falling of the Berlin Wall

A sua Vontade é mas do que Tudo Porem ela tem de vir com uma boa dosajem de Amor e Compaixao.
É uma decisao  que vem guiada pela intuicao e Paz interior em constante auto observacao.
 So de lembrar que a pouco tempo atras aconteceu essa demolicao e de que se esta a espera para quebrar as barreiras de todo pensamento velho do mundo velho e antigo do que se esta a espera é agora é ja.
 Intuo.

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Falling of the Berlin Wall. 1989

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Music & Simphiwe Dana & Zandisile album

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Simphiwe Dana

Erykah Badu would do well re-incarnated as a Xhosa woman and winds up living in Johannesburg. Originally from Transkei, Simphiwe Dana cut her musical teeth on the church music and choral stylings in the church where her father was a pastor. Born in 1980, she was a teenager when aparthied crashed and burned on its own alter of hate. She has not forgotten those days and the petty indignities of being forced to speak either English or Afrikaans as Xhosa and any of the other bantu languages were banned. By way of explanation, she spoke on the reason for recording the album almost entirely in Xhosa. She need not have bothered as I think that the record buying public that enjoys global rhythms are increasingly sophisticated these days and can make the connection between Abdulla Ibrahim, Sibonghile Khumalo*, Miriam Makeba, Hugh Masakela, Brenda Fassie to her current effort. All these international music stars have at one time put out material in the xhosa language which we may not understand but can definitely say; that we have heard before. Music is a feeling, right? An emotional expression from the heart aimed at the heart. 

The album won the best vocal Jazz album in South Africa. The Jazz categorisation falls short of adequately representing the subtleties and the sublime blend of choral music and the credible attempt at capturing the vibrancy of the varied musical and cultural elements of a nation such as that of post-apartheid South Africa. Apartheid is but a footnote in the imagination of a world saturated with images of disasters in far-flung places, some natural and some man-made. Music, especially singing went hand in hand with political struggle and still does in South Africa today in the form of Kwaito, a hybrid sound of hip-hop attitude and township Jazz. Like hip-hop, it is a life-style; what you wear, how you speak, where you are from. 

Thwel' Ubunzima, a track on the album is a case in point, it brings to mind the toyi-toyi. The toyi-toyi is the rather menacing looking dance (not unlike jogging on the spot) that gave the impression of being impenetrable like a human wall in the face of guns, tear gas and water canons. What made the hair stand on the back of the neck were the heart-breaking harmonies that accompanied this defiant act at the height of the struggle for freedom from under the yoke of apartheid. Or you can read it as just a pleasant, jazzy, ska tune. Ingoma is a track that celebrates that spirit as the translation says; " An ode to the song in my people". A harmony-laden confection of the most languid cries of beauty and sadness. Vukani, the openeing track is an acid-jazz dance masterpiece with a slice of inspired smoky rap interlude and a kwaito drive floating on some deft jazz piano. That is the reason the title jazz may put some people off and miss this gem of an album which has used the whole array of the South African song style-book; township jive, gospel, choral music and Kwaito, fronted by a vocalist poised beyond her years.

Sibonghile Khumalo

Live at the Market Theatre

Live Jazz from one of Johannesburg's leading lights with regards to creating a new repertoire and adding a new nuance whilst preserving the South African song. Ms Khumalo is a trained opera singer and she brought that vibe to this collection of songs which is a celebration of South African jazz, South African music in general and its exponents. 

The ten track set opened with a scatted version of Abdullah Ibrahinm's Royal blue and on to songs by Dorothy Masuka, Caiphus Semenya whose song Caution sees her switch from vocals to violin which sounds like something the Afro-celt sound system would do if they were invited to play at Buckingham Palace. It is a storming set backed by Jo'burg's finest who made their mark in extended solos, but it is all about the vocals; a crafty piece of jazz and opera fusion of epic African songs. It rivals the star griots of West Africa in epicness.

Victor lewis aka Patrice Djallo

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